【摘要】：深衣,是古時候上衣下裳相相連的一種服裝,又稱之為長衣,是古時候諸侯和大夫等士大夫階層閑居在家時的的家居服,也可以作為普通老百姓的禮服。深衣是我國最早的服飾之一,對中華服飾數(shù)千年的演變有著極其深遠(yuǎn)的影響,也是中國古代服飾史中至關(guān)重要的一環(huán),可以說是開啟后世服裝的一把鑰匙,所以深衣的研究對整個服裝史的研究來說也是有著非同尋常的意義。深衣概念的提出最早是出現(xiàn)在《禮記》的《深衣》和《玉藻》兩篇中,但囿于文字對圖形、圖案描述的天生不足和古文字含義隨著時間的不斷演變,加上實物的匱乏,所以后世的各朝代學(xué)者對深衣的見解各不相同,究其根本,各代學(xué)者都是以文字研究文字,僅僅是從文字的角度來研究深衣,所繪的圖形,也大都是平面的款式圖,本文則是提供另一種研究思路為前面的學(xué)者做一點補充,從結(jié)構(gòu)出發(fā),用裁縫的角度,提供深衣裁剪圖及實物可行性分析。本文依據(jù)朝代順序,從最初提及深衣的《禮記》開始,首先對《禮記.深衣》《禮記.玉藻》兩篇作分析,提取其中對于深衣形制的規(guī)定,再依次深入研究剖析宋朝朱熹《家禮》中的《深衣制度》一篇、明末清初時黃宗羲所撰寫的《深衣考》一篇、清代江永的《深衣考誤》一篇及其弟子戴震所著《戴震全集》中的《深衣解》一篇,本文作者細(xì)致分析了文中每句話的含義,從而得出其對應(yīng)的剪裁尺寸,最后結(jié)合每篇文章中已經(jīng)給出的款式圖而繪制出深衣裁剪結(jié)構(gòu)圖,進(jìn)行深衣復(fù)原,最后把得到的每一件深衣,與《禮記.深衣》《禮記.玉藻》兩篇中對深衣形制的規(guī)定進(jìn)行對照研究,得出其符合與不盡相符的結(jié)構(gòu)部分。最后本文作者依據(jù)對以上三件深衣共有的特點進(jìn)行了歸納總結(jié):下裳為十二片布制成;腰圍是7.2尺(165.6cm);袖口為1.2尺(27.6cm);方領(lǐng);都有衽等,并結(jié)合《禮記.深衣》《禮記.玉藻》兩篇中對深衣形制的規(guī)定,給予了深衣剪裁新的定義。此深衣是綜合了以上三件深衣的共同點繪制而成,只做了細(xì)微改動,但在下擺部分,通過復(fù)原深衣,發(fā)現(xiàn)前人學(xué)者給出的尺寸過大,不能契合《禮記》中下擺平行于地面的規(guī)定,結(jié)合出土實物,本文作者對下擺尺寸做了略微調(diào)整。
[Abstract]:Deep clothing is a kind of clothing which is connected with the clothes under the coat in ancient times. It is also called the long dress. It is the household dress of the scholar and official class such as princes and doctors, and can also be used as the dress of the ordinary people. Deep clothing is one of the earliest garments in China, which has a profound influence on the evolution of Chinese clothing for thousands of years, and is also a crucial link in the history of Chinese ancient clothing. It can be said to be a key to the later generations of clothing. So the research of deep clothing is also of extraordinary significance to the study of the whole clothing history. The concept of deep clothing was first put forward in the Book of Rites and Jade algae. However, due to the natural inadequacies of the description of patterns and the evolution of the meaning of ancient characters over time, there is a lack of real objects. Therefore, the scholars of later dynasties have different views on deep clothing. At its root, scholars of all generations have studied the text only from the perspective of writing. The figures drawn are also mostly graphic drawings of a plane. This article is to provide another research idea for the former scholars to do a little supplement, from the structure, with the perspective of tailors, to provide deep clothing cutting drawing and physical feasibility analysis. According to the order of the dynasty, this paper begins with the first mention of the Rites of Deep clothing. The Book of Rites. Two articles of Jade algae are analyzed, in which the regulations on the form of deep clothing are extracted, and then the "deep clothing system" in Zhu Xi's "Family Rites" in the Song Dynasty and the "Deep clothing examination" in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties are analyzed in turn, and the "examination of Deep clothing" written by Huang Zongxi in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. In the Qing Dynasty Jiang Yong's "deep clothing examination mistake" one and his disciple Dai Zhen's "Dai Zhen complete works" deep clothing solution "one article, the author of this article carefully analyzed the meaning of each sentence in the text, so as to obtain the corresponding size of the tailoring. Finally, combined with the style diagram given in each article, we draw the deep garment cut structure diagram, carry on the deep clothing restoration, and finally take each piece of deep clothing, and < Rites note. The Book of Rites. A comparative study was carried out on the rules of deep garment shape in two parts of Jade algae, and it was found that they were in accord with the different structural parts. Finally, according to the common characteristics of the above three pieces of deep clothing, the author summarizes the characteristics: the lower garment is made of twelve pieces of cloth, the waist circumference is 7.2ft (165.6cm), the cuff is 1.2ft (27.6cm), the square collar has the lapel, and so on. The Book of Rites. "Jade algae." A new definition of deep garment tailoring is given in the two articles. This deep garment is drawn from the common ground of the above three pieces of deep clothing, with only minor changes, but in the lower part of the garment, by restoring the deep garment, it is found that the size given by previous scholars is too large. Not in accordance with the rule that the pendulum is parallel to the ground in the Book of Rites, and combined with the unearthed object, the author of this paper makes a slight adjustment to the size of the pendulum.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：武漢紡織大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.1

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本文編號：2291332