本文關(guān)鍵詞： 楚鳳 服裝設(shè)計(jì) 創(chuàng)意應(yīng)用　出處：《武漢紡織大學(xué)》2016年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：楚國(guó)紡織品文化歷史悠久,豐富多彩,早在先秦時(shí)期,楚國(guó)紡織品工藝已具備了獨(dú)樹一幟的經(jīng)典形象,被世人所追捧,成為了中國(guó)歷史文化史上一顆閃亮耀眼的明珠。其中鳳鳥紋樣最為突出。秦人具有著崇尚鳳鳥的情懷,他們認(rèn)為鳳鳥乃吉祥之物,他們的生活在鳳鳥的庇佑下將枝繁葉茂,順風(fēng)順?biāo)�。在秦人的日常生活用品上也不乏頻繁出現(xiàn)各式各樣的鳳鳥紋樣,通過(guò)那些活靈活現(xiàn)的紋樣反映出處在當(dāng)時(shí)歷史環(huán)境下楚人的生活習(xí)慣,思維狀態(tài),歷史背景等基本特征。鳳紋樣在楚國(guó)的發(fā)展也是豐富多彩的,早在春秋時(shí)代鳳紋以絢麗多彩的風(fēng)格聞名天下,戰(zhàn)國(guó)時(shí)代鳳紋的種類和形態(tài)由多元化趨勢(shì)發(fā)展著,到了秦朝逐漸簡(jiǎn)潔化,其給人一種意猶未盡,意味深長(zhǎng)之情懷。在歷史上先秦紡織品中的楚鳳資料并不豐富和齊全,正因如此本文的存在則更具有參考性和促進(jìn)性的作用,將中國(guó)古典傳統(tǒng)文化與現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)相結(jié)合使其能夠更符合適宜的傳承下去。論文內(nèi)容分為六章:第一章為緒論。首先闡述了選題的目的和意義,通過(guò)對(duì)其背景的深入了解和研究,利用大量的文獻(xiàn)及圖表資源對(duì)其進(jìn)行分析和總結(jié)�？偨Y(jié)出國(guó)內(nèi)外對(duì)其的研究概述和現(xiàn)狀,可有效的作為支撐選題的依據(jù)。并對(duì)古今中外的研究方法進(jìn)行了一系列的回顧和分析。最后對(duì)此研究對(duì)象的對(duì)象進(jìn)行了相關(guān)的界定。第二章分析了先秦楚國(guó)紡織品中鳳紋樣的背景及其種類的分析。本章節(jié)通過(guò)對(duì)楚鳳紋樣的形成背景和楚人對(duì)鳳圖騰的信仰進(jìn)行了深刻的描述。然后將楚鳳紋分成了四種類別,如:植物類、動(dòng)物類、人物類、單獨(dú)鳳紋類,并提取于其相關(guān)的典型紋樣進(jìn)行了細(xì)節(jié)上的分析。最后對(duì)楚國(guó)紡織品中鳳紋樣進(jìn)行了提煉與創(chuàng)新,并深刻研究其相關(guān)概念及表現(xiàn)特征。第三章結(jié)合前一章節(jié)對(duì)楚鳳紋的歸納和總結(jié),選出一到兩張鳳紋進(jìn)行圖案創(chuàng)新設(shè)計(jì)。本章節(jié)對(duì)楚鳳紋樣的圖案創(chuàng)新進(jìn)行了兩層實(shí)踐性的操作分析:第一層是將紡織品中的紋樣提煉和加工,運(yùn)用現(xiàn)代電腦繪圖軟件技術(shù)將其明細(xì)化,將實(shí)物中的圖案提煉與電腦之中,并運(yùn)用剪切、變形、旋轉(zhuǎn)、拷貝等多種設(shè)計(jì)手法,將原本的楚鳳圖案變形成一個(gè)新型的鳳紋樣,但在此基礎(chǔ)上盡量保留楚鳳的韻味和神采。第二層是將設(shè)計(jì)好的新型圖案基礎(chǔ)之上進(jìn)行了色彩搭配設(shè)計(jì),將其做了冷暖色調(diào)的設(shè)計(jì),此設(shè)計(jì)嘗試視覺效果明顯,色彩情緒跳躍極為活躍。最后運(yùn)用冷暖色交匯的搭配將花卉鳳鳥紋進(jìn)行了大面積的色彩搭配,其色彩填充已超出了單獨(dú)花紋的色彩搭配,更多的是為了展現(xiàn)整體的圖案效果,將冷暖搭配合理化,細(xì)節(jié)化,給予人耳目一新的視覺盛宴。第四章紋樣中進(jìn)行理性和感性上的色彩搭配,結(jié)合冷暖色系進(jìn)行了單獨(dú)紋樣的冷色系搭配和暖色系搭配。搭配出兩種不同風(fēng)格的單獨(dú)鳳紋后將結(jié)合其實(shí)踐經(jīng)驗(yàn)對(duì)整體的鳳紋樣做了綜合性的色彩搭配,成果較為明顯。本章就中國(guó)最具典型的傳統(tǒng)圖案——楚鳳紋樣,進(jìn)行了研究和升華,讓更多的人對(duì)楚國(guó)紡織品中的鳳紋樣有了更深的了解,并通過(guò)理論與實(shí)踐相結(jié)合,將圖案的形態(tài)設(shè)計(jì)和色彩設(shè)計(jì)進(jìn)行了創(chuàng)意嘗試。第五章在第三章的基礎(chǔ)之上對(duì)圖案的工藝創(chuàng)意應(yīng)用做了詳細(xì)的實(shí)踐性研究。并在工藝上進(jìn)行的手法實(shí)踐有:數(shù)碼印花表現(xiàn)手法、手工繡花表現(xiàn)手法和重工釘珠的表現(xiàn)手法等。此次研究成果可作為日后本人畢業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)的重要素材。第六章主要論述了楚鳳創(chuàng)新圖案及工藝在現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)中的運(yùn)用。將圖案設(shè)計(jì)和工藝設(shè)計(jì)緊密結(jié)合,運(yùn)用在現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)之中才是其最實(shí)際性的作用。本章節(jié)運(yùn)用了服裝上衣最基本的經(jīng)典款式并結(jié)合上述新型鳳紋圖案進(jìn)行了設(shè)計(jì)搭配,嘗試做了短裝和長(zhǎng)款風(fēng)衣的單獨(dú)設(shè)計(jì),并在此基礎(chǔ)之上做了一個(gè)系列服裝設(shè)計(jì)。為本人日后的畢業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)打下了良好的基礎(chǔ)。最后將整體的論文進(jìn)行了提煉和總結(jié)。此次研究工作也是一次十分好的推廣機(jī)會(huì),讓更多的人重視楚鳳紋,運(yùn)用楚鳳紋,并對(duì)其進(jìn)行規(guī)模上的開拓與創(chuàng)新。使我們?cè)趯W(xué)習(xí)和研究中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)紋樣的過(guò)程中,對(duì)歷史紋樣的轉(zhuǎn)變進(jìn)行更直觀,更準(zhǔn)確的了解,同時(shí)也增加其有利的參考價(jià)值。本文通過(guò)對(duì)楚鳳紋的文化歷史、形成背景、情感信仰和圖案構(gòu)成做了詳細(xì)的分析和歸納。并將其以集合分類的形式對(duì)先秦楚國(guó)紡織品中的鳳紋樣的圖案設(shè)計(jì)和制作工藝進(jìn)行了細(xì)致和深入的實(shí)踐研究。本人在實(shí)踐過(guò)程中做的小樣分析不僅僅只是這一幅圖而已,更多的是想要總結(jié)出這一系列的實(shí)踐方法,以便日后運(yùn)用在任何的服裝圖案工藝運(yùn)用之中,由此更現(xiàn)代化的設(shè)計(jì)方法也便于傳承下去。其意義在于對(duì)日后的設(shè)計(jì)工作奠定了良好的設(shè)計(jì)基礎(chǔ)。但要使其生命力更加強(qiáng)盛,時(shí)尚度更高,造型感更獨(dú)特,還需要我們后人加倍的努力和嘗試出更多更好的設(shè)計(jì)作品。
[Abstract]:Chu textile culture has a long history, rich and colorful, in the pre Qin period, Chu textile technology has become an independent school classic image, is the pursuit of the world, has become Chinese historical and cultural history of a shining pearl. The phoenix design is most prominent. Qin has advocating Phoenix's feelings, but they think the Phoenix auspicious, they live in Phoenix's blessing will be smooth. In the Qin Dynasty with luxuriant foliage, people's daily necessities are also frequent every kind of the phoenix patterns, reflecting the source at the time of Chu people in the historical environment of life habits, mental state through those vivid patterns, the basic characteristics of the historical background of the phoenix patterns. In the state of Chu development is also rich and colorful, as early as in the spring and Autumn period to the Phoenix bright and colorful style famous types and forms of the Warring States period by the diversification trend of Phoenix The potential development, the Qin Dynasty gradually concise, it gives people a more meaningful feelings. In the history of pre Qin Chu Feng data in textiles is not rich and complete, so the existence of more reference and promote the role of the Chinese classical traditional culture and modern design combination to make it more in line with the appropriate pass. This thesis is divided into six chapters: the first chapter is the introduction. Firstly, expounds the purpose and significance of the topic, through in-depth understanding and Research on its background, carries on the analysis and summary of the literature and a large number of chart resources at home and abroad. Summarize the research overview and the status quo of that can effectively support as the basis of topic selection and research methods. At all times and in all countries is reviewed and analyzed a series of objects. Finally this research object has been defined. The second chapter analyzes Analysis of the background and the types of textiles in pre Qin Chu phoenix patterns. This chapter described deeply by forming background and Chu Chu phoenix patterns of Phoenix totem belief. Then Chu Fengwen will be divided into four categories, such as: plant, animal, people, individual Phoenix, and extract the typical patterns are analyzed in detail. At the end of Chu textile phoenix patterns were refined and innovation, and deeply study the related concepts and features. The third chapter with a chapter on Chu Fengwen summed up, choose one to two lines of Zhang Feng of creative design. This section of phoenix pattern pattern innovation is analyzed and the practical operation of two layers: the first layer is the textile pattern extraction and processing, the use of modern computer software technology will be the details of, real patterns in refining and electricity The brain, and the use of shear deformation, rotation, copy and other design techniques, will change the original phoenix pattern to form a new pattern on the basis of the Phoenix, but retain the charm and spirit of Phoenix. The second layer is above the new pattern design basis will be good for the color collocation design, the the design of warm and cold colors, this design to the visual effect is obvious, the emotional color jump is extremely active. The intersection of the collocation of warm and cold colors will flower of Phoenix of large area color collocation, the color filling is beyond the separate patterns of color collocation, more is to show the overall pattern effect, cold and heat reasonable collocation, the details, give people find everything fresh and new visual feast. Rational and perceptual color collocation patterns in the fourth chapter, the individual patterns combined with cold warm cool colors and warm color collocation Collocation. Two different collocation style of the Phoenix after alone will combine its practical experience to the whole of the phoenix patterns have made a comprehensive color collocation, results are obvious. This chapter Chinese the most typical traditional pattern - Chu phoenix patterns were studied, and the sublimation, let more people have a deeper understanding of Chu textiles in the phoenix patterns, and through the combination of theory and practice, the shape design and color design pattern of creative attempt. In the fifth chapter, on the basis of the third chapter of the process of creative application of pattern is studied in detail. The practice and practice techniques in the process are: digital printing expression, handmade embroidery style and heavy beading methods. The research results can be used as an important material for days after I graduated from the design. The sixth chapter mainly discusses the innovation pattern and Chu Feng Technology in modern clothing Is used in the design. Combining the pattern design and process design, used in modern fashion design is the most practical. This chapter uses the most basic garment classic style and combined with the new phoenix pattern design of the collocation, try to do a separate design short and long windbreaker on this basis, and made a series of clothing design. A good foundation for my graduation design, after playing. Finally the overall thesis are refined and summarized. The research work is also a very good promotion opportunity, let more people pay attention to the use of Chu Phoenix, Chu Phoenix and the development and innovation on the scale of the process. So we research Chinese traditional patterns in learning and in the transformation of historical patterns are more intuitive, more accurate understanding, but also increase the beneficial reference value. Based on Chu Fengwen's cultural history, background, belief and emotion pattern analyzes and summarizes in detail. And to set the classification form of pre Qin Chu phoenix patterns in textile pattern design and fabrication process are detailed and in-depth practical research. The sample analysis in the process of practice I do this is not just a picture only, more is to summarize the practice of this series of methods to use in the days after any clothing design process using this design method, but also facilitate more modern heritage. Its significance is laid a good foundation for the design of the design work. But to make the day after the more powerful vitality, fashion degree is more higher, more unique sense of style, we also need to redouble their efforts and later to try out the design work more and better.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：武漢紡織大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2016
【分類號(hào)】：J523.5

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