本文選題：Boussinesq模型 + 淺水��； 參考：《大連理工大學(xué)》2015年碩士論文

【摘要】：波浪由深水傳播到淺水的過程中,由于淺水變形及非線性的影響,波浪的形態(tài)會(huì)發(fā)生巨大變化,如波長(zhǎng)變短,波幅、波陡變大及波浪破碎。Boussinesq方程對(duì)模擬波浪在淺水傳播過程中的變化比較理想,本文利用改進(jìn)的線性色散關(guān)系可以達(dá)到一階Stokes波色散關(guān)系Pade[4,4]近似,精確到O(U2,ε3μ2)的完全非線性Boussinesq方程來模擬波浪在淺水區(qū)域傳播過程。通過與理論靶譜、物理模型實(shí)驗(yàn)結(jié)果進(jìn)行對(duì)比驗(yàn)證,證明了該模型模擬隨機(jī)波浪在近岸傳播的有效性。隨后應(yīng)用該數(shù)值模型研究了隨機(jī)波浪在潛堤上傳播的變形情況,波浪非線性特征參數(shù)(如不對(duì)稱度,偏度)的變化。結(jié)果表明,隨著水深的減小,波浪的不對(duì)稱度和偏度逐漸增大,它們的最大值均出現(xiàn)在堤頂迎浪側(cè),然后逐漸減小,如果堤頂淺水區(qū)足夠長(zhǎng),它們?cè)诘添敎\水區(qū)會(huì)達(dá)到一個(gè)穩(wěn)定的狀態(tài),之后在反變淺區(qū)水深增加的過程中偏度逐漸減小到零,而不對(duì)稱度有一個(gè)略微的增長(zhǎng)然后再逐漸減小到零。基于波面過程線的波形變化及其波浪譜變化分析了這些參數(shù)變化的原因,接下來基于小波二階譜分析了小波二階譜實(shí)部與偏度、虛部與不對(duì)稱度變化的關(guān)系。然后分析了潛堤坡度、譜峰周期、波陡、堤頂淺水區(qū)水深、譜峰因子等因素對(duì)不對(duì)稱度和偏度變化的影響。隨后分析了變淺區(qū)、反變淺區(qū)、堤頂淺水區(qū)三個(gè)區(qū)域不對(duì)稱度和偏度與當(dāng)?shù)豒rsell數(shù)的關(guān)系,根據(jù)數(shù)值模擬結(jié)果擬合了各區(qū)域波浪的不對(duì)稱度和偏度與Ursell數(shù)之間的經(jīng)驗(yàn)公式,并與相關(guān)研究進(jìn)行了對(duì)比。最后利用該模型研究了隨機(jī)波浪在潛堤上傳播時(shí)畸形波的發(fā)生情況及其影響因素。當(dāng)隨機(jī)波浪在潛堤上傳播時(shí),波浪的偏度和峰度均隨著水深的減小而增大,畸形波發(fā)生的概率也隨之增大,偏度和峰度的最大值以及畸形波發(fā)生概率最大的位置均出現(xiàn)在堤頂淺水區(qū)前端。并且發(fā)現(xiàn)入射波浪的譜峰周期、斜坡的坡度以及堤頂淺水區(qū)的水深均對(duì)畸形波產(chǎn)生的概率有影響,而代表波浪譜寬的譜峰因子對(duì)于隨機(jī)波浪在淺水區(qū)域傳播時(shí)畸形波產(chǎn)生的概率影響并不顯著。偏度和峰度的變化與最大波高的變化呈現(xiàn)相關(guān)性,而坡度會(huì)影響偏度與峰度之間的關(guān)系。
[Abstract]:In the process of wave propagation from deep water to shallow water, due to the influence of shallow water deformation and nonlinearity, the shape of wave will change greatly, such as the wave length becomes shorter, the wave amplitude becomes shorter,The Boussinesq equation is ideal for simulating the wave propagation in shallow water. By using the improved linear dispersion relation, the first-order Stokes wave dispersion relation Pade [4 ~ 4] approximation can be obtained.The complete nonlinear Boussinesq equation is used to simulate the wave propagation in shallow water region with the accuracy of OFU _ 2, 蔚 _ 3 渭 _ 2).Compared with the theoretical target spectrum and the experimental results of the physical model, it is proved that the model is effective in simulating the propagation of random waves near the shore.Then the numerical model is used to study the deformation of random waves propagating on the submersible embankment and the variation of wave nonlinear characteristic parameters such as asymmetry degree and deviation degree.The results show that with the decrease of water depth, the asymmetry and deviation of the waves increase gradually, and their maximum values appear at the top of the embankment, and then gradually decrease, if the shallow water area of the top of the embankment is long enough,They will reach a stable state in the shallow water area of the top of the embankment, and then decrease to zero in the process of increasing the water depth in the reverse shallow area, while the asymmetry degree increases slightly and then decreases to zero gradually.The causes of these parameters are analyzed based on the waveform changes of the wavefront process line and the wave spectrum changes. Then, the relationship between the real part and the bias of the wavelet second order spectrum and the variation of the imaginary part and the asymmetry degree is analyzed based on the wavelet second order spectrum.Then, the effects of slope, peak period, wave steepness, shallow water depth and spectral peak factor on the variation of asymmetry and deviation are analyzed.Then, the relationship between the asymmetry degree and deviation degree and the local Ursell number of the three regions in the shallow area of the shallow area, the reverse shallow area and the top of the embankment are analyzed. According to the numerical simulation results, the empirical formulas between the asymmetry degree and the deviation degree and the Ursell number of the waves in each region are fitted.And compared with the related research.Finally, using the model, we study the occurrence and influence factors of the abnormal wave when the random wave propagates on the submersible embankment.When the random wave propagates on the submersible embankment, the deviation and kurtosis of the wave increase with the decrease of the water depth, and the probability of the abnormal wave also increases.The maximum values of skewness and kurtosis, as well as the largest occurrence probability of deformities, occur at the front of the shallow water area at the top of the embankment.It is also found that the frequency peak period of the incident wave, the slope of the slope and the water depth in the shallow water area of the top of the embankment have an effect on the probability of the abnormal wave.But the peak factor, which represents the wave spectrum width, has no significant effect on the probability of the abnormal wave when the random wave propagates in shallow water region.The variation of skewness and kurtosis is correlated with the change of maximum wave height, while the slope will influence the relationship between skewness and kurtosis.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：大連理工大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2015
【分類號(hào)】：TV139.2

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