【摘要】：盤扣可分為一字直扣與盤花扣，最晚自唐代出現(xiàn)，經(jīng)由宋元明時(shí)期的緩慢發(fā)展，在清代時(shí)成為服裝的主流門襟閉合件，民國(guó)時(shí)期盤花扣借由旗袍進(jìn)入發(fā)展的輝煌期，造型極盡豐富。盤扣在我國(guó)的應(yīng)用范圍和應(yīng)用品類十分廣泛，其細(xì)節(jié)也很豐富，是十分自由的服飾藝術(shù)，沒有定式。 盤扣基于服裝而存在，服裝基于人而存在。一件衣服上的盤扣往往與服裝本身有著密切的關(guān)聯(lián)，通常情況下，盤扣的色彩與服裝的色彩有著協(xié)調(diào)的關(guān)系，盤扣的造型與服裝面料上的圖案有著契合關(guān)系，而盤扣的工藝及用材又與服裝的邊飾有著密切關(guān)聯(lián)。多種造型的盤扣同時(shí)出現(xiàn)在同一件服裝中時(shí)，會(huì)使服裝顯得更加豐富、充滿趣味，同時(shí)，，盤扣裝飾效果的強(qiáng)弱還要參照服裝本身的華麗程度而定。 盤扣依托于服裝也是體現(xiàn)穿著者個(gè)性的一個(gè)載體，不同的人群對(duì)盤扣有著不同的需求。同樣的扣型，當(dāng)使用不同的材質(zhì)，釘縫在不同的服裝上，穿著在不同的人身上，其所帶來的意蘊(yùn)便是截然不同的，這便是盤扣、服裝與人的微妙關(guān)系。
[Abstract]:The disc buckle can be divided into a word straight buckle and a floral buckle. At the latest, it appeared since the Tang Dynasty. Through the slow development of the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, it became the mainstream closure of the garment in the Qing Dynasty. In the Republic of China, the flower buckle came into the glorious period from the cheongsam to the development. The shape is extremely rich. The application range and category of disc buckle in our country is very extensive, its detail is also very rich, is very free clothing art, has no fixed form. Disc buckles exist on the basis of clothing, and clothing on people. The plate buckle on a garment is often closely related to the garment itself. In general, the color of the plate buckle is in harmony with the color of the garment, and the shape of the plate buckle is closely related to the pattern on the garment fabric. And the technology of plate buckle and material and the edge decoration of clothing have close relation. When many kinds of plate buckles appear in the same garment at the same time, they will make the clothing more abundant and full of interest. At the same time, the intensity of the decorative effect of the plate buckle will depend on the ornate degree of the garment itself. The disc buckle is also a carrier to reflect the individual character of the wearer, and different people have different demands for the disc buckle. The same buckle type, when used in different materials, pinned to different clothes, worn on different people, has very different implications. This is the subtle relationship between clothes and people.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2015
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.3

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