【摘要】：本文以白褲瑤服飾為主要研究對(duì)象,對(duì)白褲瑤文化和服飾進(jìn)行了實(shí)地考察,以廣西南丹縣里湖鄉(xiāng)白褲瑤生態(tài)博物館的藏品為標(biāo)本,通過(guò)對(duì)其外觀、結(jié)構(gòu)及形態(tài)特征進(jìn)行系統(tǒng)的數(shù)據(jù)采集、測(cè)繪,客觀、完整的記錄下了白褲瑤傳統(tǒng)服飾結(jié)構(gòu)型制的面貌。通過(guò)兩次深入當(dāng)?shù)貙?shí)證考據(jù),立足于服飾結(jié)構(gòu)角度探尋白褲瑤文化在其民族服飾中的展現(xiàn),探索白褲瑤傳統(tǒng)服飾型制及服飾結(jié)構(gòu)的特征。發(fā)現(xiàn)白褲瑤服飾具有十字型平面結(jié)構(gòu)的中華服飾結(jié)構(gòu)的通性,同時(shí)也可看到傳統(tǒng)平面結(jié)構(gòu)中出現(xiàn)的立體性思維萌芽,以及在結(jié)構(gòu)剪裁和布幅寬度使用等方面具有鮮明的“節(jié)儉理念與敬物精神”。因此,本論文以服飾最本質(zhì)的結(jié)構(gòu)角度著手并結(jié)合人體工程學(xué)等相關(guān)專業(yè)知識(shí)來(lái)探析白褲瑤服飾型制和結(jié)構(gòu),努力探尋人類著衣之初服裝型制的結(jié)構(gòu)特點(diǎn)和形成原因,彌補(bǔ)了瑤族服飾文化研究中偏重表征而忽略結(jié)構(gòu)的不足,并引出白褲瑤服飾結(jié)構(gòu)在當(dāng)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)中的應(yīng)用,為今后的相關(guān)研究提供完整可靠的圖譜數(shù)據(jù)及案例分析。
[Abstract]:In this paper, the Bai Kuyao clothing as the main research object, the white pants Yao culture and clothing field investigation, with the Guangxi Nandan County Lihu County Bai Kui Yao Ecological Museum collection as a specimen, through its appearance, Structure and morphological features of the system data collection, mapping, objective, complete record of the white trousers Yao traditional clothing structure system face. Through two in-depth local empirical research, based on the perspective of clothing structure to explore the Bai Ku-yao culture in their national costumes, to explore the traditional style of Bai Ku-yao clothing and the characteristics of the clothing structure. It is found that Bai Ku-yao dress has the general character of the Chinese dress structure with cross-type plane structure, and at the same time, it can also see the germination of three-dimensional thinking in the traditional plane structure. And in the structural tailoring and use of cloth width and other aspects have a distinct "thrift concept and respect spirit." Therefore, from the point of view of the most essential structure of clothing and combining with ergonomics and other related professional knowledge, this paper tries to explore the structure characteristics and formation reasons of the garment pattern system in the beginning of human clothing. It makes up for the deficiency in the study of Yao nationality costume culture which emphasizes the representation and neglects the structure. It also leads to the application of the Bai Ku-yao dress structure in the contemporary clothing design. It provides complete and reliable atlas data and case analysis for the related research in the future.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：廣西藝術(shù)學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2015
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.2

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本文編號(hào)：2126389