本文選題：服裝產(chǎn)業(yè) + 服裝品牌��； 參考：《山東大學(xué)》2008年博士論文

【摘要】： 服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)作為中國國民經(jīng)濟(jì)的支柱產(chǎn)業(yè),從我國建國以來,尤其是改革開放后的經(jīng)濟(jì)建設(shè)中,起到了舉足輕重的支柱作用。除了滿足占世界人口五分之一的服裝產(chǎn)品的消費(fèi)外,中國的服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)每年還向世界服裝市場(chǎng)提供大量物美價(jià)廉的服裝,同時(shí)為我國換回大量外匯,極大地支持了國民經(jīng)濟(jì)中其他部門在建設(shè)中的資金需求。 但是,隨著經(jīng)濟(jì)環(huán)境的變化,中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)面臨著嚴(yán)重的、難以為繼的發(fā)展問題。依靠可以獲得的大量廉價(jià)勞動(dòng)力要素而形成的低成本是中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)參與到國內(nèi)和國際服裝市場(chǎng)中的主要盈利模式,但是這種成本優(yōu)勢(shì)隨著我國勞動(dòng)力成本上漲、人民幣匯率升值、服裝出口退稅減少以及中國的服裝產(chǎn)品在世界范圍受到的反傾銷等不友好對(duì)待等不利因素的出現(xiàn)而逐漸消失,擺在中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)面前的一個(gè)嚴(yán)峻問題是:如何扭轉(zhuǎn)服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)正在喪失的競爭優(yōu)勢(shì),尋找到新的憑借,從而讓產(chǎn)業(yè)能夠繼續(xù)發(fā)展? 本文對(duì)這一問題的回答是,通過建立品類級(jí)品牌,從而改變中國服裝企業(yè)的盈利模式,來促進(jìn)整個(gè)服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展。 針對(duì)如何解決這個(gè)問題,本文首先梳理了已有的理論對(duì)解釋和解決問題所作的研究。 優(yōu)勢(shì)理論一直是國內(nèi)學(xué)者在研究服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)問題中經(jīng)常應(yīng)用的理論依據(jù),而現(xiàn)實(shí)中中國的服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)在很長一段時(shí)期內(nèi)也基本上是按照優(yōu)勢(shì)理論中的比較優(yōu)勢(shì)理論和競爭優(yōu)勢(shì)理論,以中國人口多、勞動(dòng)力成本低廉為出發(fā)點(diǎn),大力發(fā)展勞動(dòng)密集型服裝生產(chǎn)和加工,并且取得了已有的顯著成績。但是,在一種優(yōu)勢(shì)逐漸喪失以后,如何繼續(xù)服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展,或者說,如何培養(yǎng)一種新的優(yōu)勢(shì),現(xiàn)有的優(yōu)勢(shì)理論并沒有給出一個(gè)合適的理論指導(dǎo)。 產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)的理論是國內(nèi)學(xué)者在研究服裝問題過程中經(jīng)常應(yīng)用的另一體系的理論,其中產(chǎn)業(yè)集群理論對(duì)中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展有著很強(qiáng)的指導(dǎo)作用。事實(shí)上,在中國的很多省份里都有著或大或小、主要產(chǎn)品不同的服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)集群,而且,產(chǎn)業(yè)集群的發(fā)展對(duì)中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展的促進(jìn)作用也是非常明顯的,但是,這種促進(jìn)作用更多的是體現(xiàn)在成本的降低上,對(duì)技術(shù)上的進(jìn)步并不顯著。而且,產(chǎn)業(yè)集群理論在一種優(yōu)勢(shì)消失后如何培養(yǎng)新的優(yōu)勢(shì)方面沒有涉及,因此對(duì)提出的問題無法給出答案。 產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)中價(jià)值鏈、供應(yīng)鏈方面的理論,對(duì)服裝企業(yè)如何在價(jià)值鏈上升級(jí)以及利潤在價(jià)值鏈上的分配情況進(jìn)行了研究,但是,格里芬的實(shí)證研究顯示,通過在價(jià)值鏈上升級(jí),從事更高層次的OBM并不能給原來處于加工和進(jìn)行OEM生產(chǎn)的企業(yè)帶來更好的發(fā)展,本文對(duì)這一現(xiàn)象的解釋是,企業(yè)在對(duì)品牌的理解和建立品牌方面存在問題。因此,究竟什么是品牌,怎樣才能建立成功的品牌從而使企業(yè)的盈利模式真正得到改善這一問題也是這一方面的理論所沒有解決的問題。 產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)中的差異化理論,雖然指出通過產(chǎn)品差異化可以使得企業(yè)對(duì)產(chǎn)品的價(jià)格具有一定的控制力,但是,在如何讓消費(fèi)者了解到企業(yè)的產(chǎn)品的差異化信息從而認(rèn)同和購買方面上,理論并沒有給出答案。本文認(rèn)為產(chǎn)品的差異化信息主要是通過品牌來傳遞給消費(fèi)者的,但是在差異化理論中,品牌只是作為了一個(gè)外在既定為不變的影響因素,并不是研究的主要對(duì)象,所以在這一理論中的品牌無法實(shí)現(xiàn)差異化信息傳遞的任務(wù)。而且更多是將品牌與商標(biāo)混為一談。 在上述理論都沒有對(duì)問題進(jìn)行合適的解釋和解決的同時(shí),我們可以看到,服裝品牌在已經(jīng)討論過的理論中成為問題的核心:價(jià)值鏈、供應(yīng)鏈理論中,品牌問題是生產(chǎn)企業(yè)升級(jí)中實(shí)現(xiàn)盈利模式真正轉(zhuǎn)變的核心,差異化理論中,能夠讓消費(fèi)者對(duì)差異化產(chǎn)品認(rèn)同和選擇的關(guān)鍵,同樣歸結(jié)為產(chǎn)品的品牌問題。 因此,對(duì)服裝品牌的研究成為解答問題的關(guān)鍵。 在現(xiàn)有的品牌研究中,多數(shù)研究是從管理學(xué)角度出發(fā)的,從經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)角度對(duì)品牌進(jìn)行解釋的研究還較少,本文主要運(yùn)用由孫曰瑤和劉華軍前期在品牌經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)方面進(jìn)行的理論探索成果,結(jié)合中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的具體情況,對(duì)產(chǎn)業(yè)面臨的問題進(jìn)行理論上的研究和實(shí)踐上的建議。 因此,本文從中國服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展面臨的問題入手,以改變企業(yè)目前以低成本競爭為主的盈利模式為目的,提出通過建立品類級(jí)服裝品牌的途徑,改變企業(yè)的盈利模式,從而達(dá)到促進(jìn)整個(gè)產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展。 本文的創(chuàng)新點(diǎn)所在,就是從經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)角度對(duì)服裝品牌如何通過影響和擴(kuò)大服裝消費(fèi)者的需求,從而對(duì)服裝生產(chǎn)者的產(chǎn)品銷售和利潤率產(chǎn)生影響,實(shí)現(xiàn)服裝品牌對(duì)中國服裝企業(yè)盈利模式的改變和服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展的促進(jìn)作用的;同時(shí),本文對(duì)如何實(shí)現(xiàn)服裝品牌的作用進(jìn)行了分析和研究,即服裝品牌的對(duì)立定位方式及服裝品牌策略研究。 本文首先運(yùn)用經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)的工具對(duì)品牌對(duì)消費(fèi)者和生產(chǎn)者產(chǎn)生的效用改變出發(fā),解釋了為什么建立品牌可以解決企業(yè)的盈利模式問題。 從消費(fèi)者角度來分析,本文首先分析了消費(fèi)者在選擇服裝產(chǎn)品時(shí)需要考慮的因素。由于購買服裝產(chǎn)品所需要考慮的影響因素較多,如材質(zhì)、款式、尺寸等,因此,就服裝本身因素而引致的選擇過程就已經(jīng)是一個(gè)復(fù)雜的過程。同時(shí),由于服裝市場(chǎng)已經(jīng)步入買方市場(chǎng)階段,市場(chǎng)上服裝產(chǎn)品供給者數(shù)量具大,產(chǎn)品供給者和供給的產(chǎn)品的信息,以及不同供給者之間的產(chǎn)品比較而產(chǎn)生的信息,讓消費(fèi)者應(yīng)不暇接,因此給消費(fèi)者的選擇帶來的困難,選擇出可以滿足消費(fèi)者需求的服裝需要支付高昂的選擇成本。服裝品牌通過明確本品牌的單一利益點(diǎn),即服裝品牌對(duì)消費(fèi)者承諾并且履行承諾提供某一特定品類的服裝,使得消費(fèi)者在進(jìn)行選擇時(shí)選擇程序簡化、選擇成本降低,來跟目標(biāo)消費(fèi)者達(dá)成利益上的均衡。服裝品牌對(duì)消費(fèi)者的最大效用就在于,消費(fèi)者通過選擇具有單一利益點(diǎn)的服裝品牌可以降低選擇成本。 對(duì)于服裝生產(chǎn)企業(yè)來說,建立服裝品牌的最大目的是通過品牌的作用能夠更好的實(shí)現(xiàn)利潤最大化。處于不同服裝價(jià)值鏈上的生產(chǎn)企業(yè),如果沒有自己的服裝品牌,僅僅是從事生產(chǎn)加工,在服裝出廠以后的價(jià)值增值過程中,獲得的增值部分比例的是整個(gè)價(jià)值鏈最少的,最大部分的利潤被流通中各個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)所分配掉。只有通過建立自己的服裝品牌,生產(chǎn)企業(yè)才有可能獲得更大比例的利潤分配。但是并不是只要建立起自己的品牌都可以使生產(chǎn)者實(shí)現(xiàn)利潤增加的目的。一個(gè)品牌從商標(biāo)注冊(cè)到真正成為品牌需要經(jīng)歷三個(gè)階段,而品牌對(duì)生產(chǎn)者利潤增長的拉力,也隨著品牌的發(fā)展程度和發(fā)展階段的不同而不同。處于商標(biāo)階段的品牌幾乎對(duì)生產(chǎn)者的服裝產(chǎn)品銷售和利潤分配情況不產(chǎn)生什么影響,但是一個(gè)具有正確的定位和符合品牌信用度六要素的商標(biāo),并且始終貫徹正確的品牌策略的品牌,其品牌拉力會(huì)隨著自身的發(fā)展不斷增強(qiáng),而生產(chǎn)者在產(chǎn)品的整個(gè)增值過程中獲得的利潤分配比例,也會(huì)隨著拉力的增強(qiáng)而逐漸增加。一個(gè)成熟品牌則會(huì)使生產(chǎn)者的銷售情況和利潤分配得到很大的改觀。 那么,什么樣的服裝品牌才能夠具有這種品牌拉力呢? 本文的觀點(diǎn)是,通過和已經(jīng)在位的服裝品牌對(duì)立的定位方式建立起來的品牌,比采取跟隨定位方式建立的品牌,有更大的成功機(jī)會(huì)。通過對(duì)立的方式可以最大化的實(shí)現(xiàn)服裝品牌對(duì)消費(fèi)者的選擇成本的降低,甚至是讓消費(fèi)者對(duì)服裝品牌的選擇成本達(dá)到0,從而最便捷有效的吸引到消費(fèi)者的選擇,也即最便捷有效的實(shí)現(xiàn)生產(chǎn)者的銷售和利潤的實(shí)現(xiàn)。 在對(duì)世界范圍內(nèi)的服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)和服裝品牌發(fā)展過程的考察過程中,我們可以發(fā)現(xiàn),除了首先在國際服裝市場(chǎng)站穩(wěn)腳跟的定位于高端產(chǎn)品的法國,其他國家企業(yè)的服裝產(chǎn)品在定位中主動(dòng)或者被動(dòng)的遵循對(duì)立定位而建立服裝品牌的,在品牌策略正確的前提下,就會(huì)獲得成功,產(chǎn)品采取跟隨定位建立起的品牌,即便還沒有失敗,也只是勉強(qiáng)維持生存。 因此,對(duì)立定位建立品類級(jí)品牌,是在處于買方市場(chǎng)中的服裝市場(chǎng)建立品牌的最佳方式。 除了定位,正確的品牌策略也是一個(gè)品牌取得成功不可忽視的環(huán)節(jié),一品類-一品牌策略能夠盡量維持品牌有一個(gè)較高的品牌品類度,從而使得消費(fèi)者選擇該品牌的選擇成本較低甚至為零,是保障服裝品牌在長期中能夠擁有穩(wěn)定需求的措施,傳播策略、信息策略、企業(yè)文化策略、環(huán)境互動(dòng)策略、策略評(píng)估和改進(jìn)策略在大眾傳播、企業(yè)應(yīng)變和信息反饋、企業(yè)文化、企業(yè)與所處環(huán)境關(guān)系維護(hù)與改善、企業(yè)正確的品牌策略維持等各個(gè)方面對(duì)服裝品牌進(jìn)行建設(shè)和維護(hù),而優(yōu)勢(shì)品牌帶動(dòng)策略則是對(duì)具有優(yōu)勢(shì)品牌的企業(yè)以及整個(gè)服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展都會(huì)產(chǎn)生有利影響的一個(gè)策略。
[Abstract]:As the pillar industry of China's national economy, the garment industry has played an important and pillar role since the founding of our country, especially in the economic construction after the reform and opening up. In addition to meeting the consumption of 1/5 of the world's population, China's clothing industry also provides a large amount of cheap and inexpensive clothing to the world clothing market every year. Garments, which also exchanged large amounts of foreign exchange for our country, greatly supported the demand for funds in other sectors of the national economy.
However, with the change of the economic environment, the Chinese garment industry is facing a serious and unsustainable development problem. The low cost formed by a large number of cheap labor factors which can be obtained is the main profit model of the Chinese garment industry participating in the domestic and international clothing market, but this cost advantage is formed with the labor force of our country. The rise, the appreciation of the RMB exchange rate, the decrease of the tax rebate of the garment export and the unfriendly treatment of China's clothing products in the world are gradually disappearing. A serious problem in front of the Chinese garment industry is how to reverse the competitive advantages that the garment industry is losing and find a new basis. So that the industry can continue to develop?
The answer to this question is to promote the development of the garment industry through establishing brand of category and changing the profit pattern of Chinese garment enterprises.
In view of how to solve this problem, this article first combed the existing theories to explain and solve the problem.
The theory of superiority has always been the theoretical basis for the domestic scholars to study the clothing industry. In reality, in a long period of time, the Chinese clothing industry is basically based on the comparative advantage theory and the competitive advantage theory in the superiority theory, taking the population of China and the low cost of labor as the starting point, and developing the labor energetically. Intensive clothing is produced and processed, and remarkable achievements have been achieved. However, after a gradual loss of advantage, how to continue the development of the clothing industry, or how to cultivate a new advantage, the existing advantage theory does not give a suitable theoretical guidance.
The theory of industrial economics is another system which is often used by domestic scholars in the study of clothing problems. The theory of industrial cluster has a strong guiding role in the development of the Chinese garment industry. In fact, in many provinces in China, there are large or small, different main products in the garment industry cluster, and the production is produced in many provinces. The development of industry cluster is also very obvious in promoting the development of Chinese clothing industry. However, this role is more reflected in the reduction of cost and the progress of technology is not significant. Moreover, the theory of industrial cluster is not involved in how to cultivate new advantages after a kind of advantage disappears, so the problems put forward You can't give the answer.
In industrial economics, the theory of value chain, supply chain, how to upgrade the value chain and the distribution of profit on the value chain is studied. However, Griffin's empirical study shows that, by upgrading the value chain, engaging in a higher level of OBM can not give the original processing and OEM production. The explanation of this phenomenon is that there are problems in the understanding of the brand and the establishment of the brand. Therefore, what is the brand, how to build a successful brand so that the profit model of the enterprise can be really improved is the problem that the theory does not solve.
The difference theory in industrial economics indicates that the difference of product can make the enterprise have a certain control on the price of the product. However, the theory does not give an answer on how to let the consumer understand the differentiation information of the products of the enterprise so as to identify and buy. If the brand is passed on to the consumer, the brand is not the main object of the study in the difference theory, and it is not the main object of the study. Therefore, the brand in this theory can not achieve the task of differential information transmission. And more is to confuse the brand and the trademark.
At the same time, we can see that clothing brand is the core of the problem in the theory that has been discussed: the value chain, the theory of supply chain, the brand problem is the core of the real transformation of the profit model in the upgrading of the production enterprise. The key to the identification and selection of differentiated products is also attributed to the brand problem of products.
Therefore, the research on clothing brand has become the key to solve the problem.
In the current brand research, most of the research is from the perspective of management, and there are few studies on the explanation of brand from the economic point of view. This paper mainly uses the theoretical exploration results of branding economics in the early stage of Sun Yueyao and Liu Huajun, combined with the specific situation of China's clothing industry, and carries out the problems facing the industry. Theoretical research and practical suggestions.
Therefore, this paper, starting with the problems facing the development of Chinese clothing industry, aims at changing the profit model of low cost competition based on the enterprise at present, and puts forward the way to change the profit model of the enterprise by establishing the category grade clothing brand, so as to promote the development of the whole industry.
The innovation point of this paper is how to influence and enlarge the demand of clothing consumers from the economic perspective, thus influence the product sales and profit rate of the garment producers, realize the effect of clothing brand on the change of the profit model of Chinese garment enterprises and the development of clothing industry. How to realize the role of clothing brand is analyzed and studied, namely, the opposition positioning method of clothing brand and the research of clothing brand strategy.
This paper begins with the use of economic tools to change the utility of brand to consumers and producers, and explains why the establishment of a brand can solve the problem of the profit model of the enterprise.
From the perspective of consumers, this paper first analyzes the factors that consumers need to consider when choosing clothing products. Because there are many factors that need to be considered, such as material, style, and size, the selection process caused by the factors of clothing is a complex process. The market has entered the stage of the buyer's market. The quantity of the suppliers of clothing products in the market is large, the information of the suppliers and the products supplied, and the information produced by the products of the different suppliers, so that the consumers should not be able to connect, so the difficulty of the consumer's choice is given, and the clothes that can meet the needs of the consumers are chosen. It needs to pay high selection costs. By defining the single interest point of the brand, the clothing brand provides a particular category of clothing to the consumer and performs the commitment to make the consumer choose the simplified procedure and reduce the cost to achieve the balance of interest with the target consumer. The biggest utility of a brand to consumers is that consumers can reduce the cost of choice by choosing a single clothing brand with a single interest.
For the clothing production enterprises, the biggest purpose of establishing clothing brand is to maximize the profit through the role of the brand. The production enterprises in different clothing value chains are only engaged in production and processing in the process of value added after the clothing factory. The proportion of the whole value chain is the least, the largest part of the profit is allocated to each link in the circulation. Only by establishing its own clothing brand, it is possible for the production enterprise to obtain a larger proportion of profit distribution. But not only the establishment of its own brand can make the producer achieve the purpose of increasing profits. The brand registration from the trademark to the real brand needs three stages, and the brand to the producer profit growth is different with the brand development degree and the development stage. The correct positioning and brand credit degree six elements of the brand, and always carry out the correct brand strategy brand, its brand pull will increase with its own development, and the producer's profit distribution ratio in the whole value-added process will increase with the increase of pull force. A mature brand will be It has greatly improved the sales and profit distribution of producers.
So, what kind of clothing brand can have this brand pull?
The point of this article is that the brand established by the positioning mode which is opposed to the existing clothing brand has a greater success than the brand established by the following orientation. By the opposite way, it can maximize the reduction of the choice of the clothing brand to the consumer and even the consumer to the clothing brand. The cost of selection is 0, which is the most convenient and effective way to attract consumers' choice. That is to say, it is the most convenient and effective way to achieve the sale and profit of producers.
In the process of the development of garment industry and clothing brand in the world, we can find that, in addition to the first position in the international clothing market, which is located in the high-end products of France, the clothing products of other countries are actively or passively establishing clothing brands in the position of opposition, in the brand. Under the premise of correct strategy, the product will succeed, and the product will follow the established brand, even if it has not failed, it will just survive.
Therefore, opposing positioning and establishing category brand is the best way to build brand in the buyer's market.
In addition to positioning, the correct brand strategy is also a link that can not be ignored by a brand success. A category - a brand strategy can maintain a brand with a higher brand category as far as possible, thus making the consumer choose the brand with a lower cost or even zero. It is a stable demand for the brand in the long term. Measures, communication strategy, information strategy, enterprise culture strategy, environmental interaction strategy, strategy evaluation and improvement strategy in mass communication, enterprise strain and information feedback, enterprise culture, enterprise and environment relationship maintenance and improvement, enterprise correct brand strategy maintenance and other aspects of clothing brand construction and maintenance, and the dominant brand The driving strategy is a strategy that will have an advantageous impact on the development of the enterprises with dominant brands and the entire garment industry.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：山東大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：博士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2008
【分類號(hào)】：F273.2;F426.86

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本文編號(hào)：2102039